Summer’s here, and the time is right for . . . sitting back in the old deckchair and sipping on a glass of well chilled Rosé wine. It’s certainly less effort than dancing in the streets.
So begins my seasonal quest for a decent Rosé wine.
There are wine snobs who wopuld argue that Rosé is not a wine, at least it is not a noble wine, the kind you serve in unfeasibly enormous glasses, sniff and sip in small quantities, before sitting round for hours waxing lyrical about it. Rosé is a wine you drink and enjoy. It’s a wine to get sloshed on. Wine snobs never get sloshed. Makes you wonder why they botheer drinking the stuff.
Recently, the EU got to grips with the Rosé question. In Brussels it was decided that wine producers with a surfeit of the red and white stuff, could mix both and call it « Rosé ». Producers of the real Rosé were up in arms, so the Brussels bureaucrats decided that real Rosé would henceforth be called « Tradition Rosé ». Look out for this when buying Rosé this summer. I am not a wine snob, but if I am going to get sloshed, let it be on something half decent. I think that the new mixed Rosé is going to be pretty awful, perhaps better for unblocking the sink that unblocking you.
So, my favourite Rosés
Sancerre, Tavel, Corsica and a St Chinian. Notice I don’t include a Rosé from Provence, it’s far too sweet and very over rated.(Mind you, as part of the marketing, Rosé from Provence always comes in a very interesting shaped bottle. It's worth buying just for that. At least when you have finished, you can stick a candle in the top and use it to illuminate your summer BBQ's). Best advice for Rosé, go for anything with a pinot noir or Syrah grape variety - a rosé with bite and attitude)
The subject of Rosé, brings me to dwell more generally on matters concerning the noble grape. French wine exporters are having a thin time of it. Not only are the French not drinking nearly enough, but international sales are down too. At the recent Vinexpo international wine fair in Bordeaux, foreign wine importers stayed away in droves. The result, French wine exports are down by an average of 20%. Exports of famous wines such as Chablis are down by 35%, whilst champagne exports are down by as much as 50%
Out here in my corner of deepest France, we produce plenty of wines – Quincy, Menetou, Reuilly. The two most notable are Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé (white wine with a slighlty smoky after taste). We are doing not too bady, wine exports are down by 14% on 2007-2008. Wines like Sancerre and Reuilly export roughly 60% to70% of their production. Last year, wine exports round here were worth 70 million Euros. Most of our local brew goes to Britain. Here is the export breakdown.
So, reasons why French wines are selling less.
New world wines are frankly very good
The French are wine snobs and won't sell their national brew by grape variety. Your bog standard world comsumer likes to buy wine by grape variety. Pinot, syrah, grenache, merlot, you know what you are drinking. When the wine has "Chateau" written on the bottle, the average consumer steers clear. Too intellectual.
The French never put decent labels on their wine. When you read the label, you want to know what you are drinking and exactly what to drink it with. Some French wines do have such labels, but they are the ones that the French steer clear of. In the mind of the French consumer, If the label is too simple, or too snazzy, then the wine must be bad.
Wine has to be complex and complicated. You don't drink wine for pleasure. Wine is a science. you must never drink lots of wine, but just small quantities of quality wine. I guess wine is a moment of communion, and you'll probably drink as much wine at a French dinner table as you will during communion. At one recent dinner I went to, we sank one bottle between nine people, and there was still enough left for a glass at the end of the evening. Mind you, you don't always have to get three sheets to when you go out
The French drink white wine at communion, and even then, it is only the priest that drinks the wine. French worshippers get a sip of communion wine at Easter and that's it.
And how to identify a good bottle of wine?
Anything over about 7 Euros with "AOC" and "Chateau" on the front and no label on the back.
Finally, dinner etiquette
Invited to a french family for the first time, never ever take a bottle of wine as an offering.
Firstly, you don't know if everyone drinks wine (many French people never touch the stuff).
Secondly, you don't know if your hosts are wine snobs or not. So, rather than take a bad bottle, take nothing.
Thirdly, if you taake wine for a first invite, your host (if he is a wine snob) may feel that you have brought your own wine because you think that the contents of his cellar is lousy.
Finally, on a first dinner, you never know what you are going to eat. It is the first time, so it is very impolite to ask what you are goling to eat, and if you don't know what is on the menu, you don't know what wine to buy.
If you do insist on taking wine for a first time out, take a good Côtes du Rhone (at least two years old, preferrably a St Joseph or a Rasteau)) or take a good Beaujolais (Moulin à Vent; Morgon or Juliennnas)










